The costume jewelry business is a very lucrative business for some and not so lucrative for others. Designer jewelry is the lucrative side of this business and sometimes they mark their jewelry where it is hard to find. I'm going to try to help you find those elusive markings that many look so hard to find.
To begin with, you need to know a little about costume jewelry. Costume jewelry, in most cases, is a cheaper alternative to the real thing. Of course you have your brand names and designer brands that are a little more expensive, but are worth the extra cost in the long run. In some cases, designer costume jewelry can be more expensive than the gold, silver, and precious gemstones used in the more desirable jewelry. Costume jewelry is a piece of jewelry made from materials other than the precious metals and gemstones found in jewelry at fine jewelry chains. Costume jewelry is timeless. It can be worn any time in any decade and still be in style. Collecting costume jewelry is quickly becoming a fast growing hobby today.
Looking for the jewelers mark can be difficult at times. Some jewelry makers used different markings to distinguish one decade of jewelry from another. These markings tell you what decade the piece was made in. For example, take Sarah Coventry. Some of the jewelry made by that company was marked “Sarah Coventry” while another decade was marked as simply “Sarah Cov”. Finding the markings of these companies jewelry is relatively easy. It is usually located on the back and marked in such a manner, there is no mistaking the company. Other companies marked their jewelry in a manner that is elusive to the untrained eye.
I am not a professional but I have become accustomed to searching every piece of jewelry I come across for the company markings. Some of these markings are found as initials, some are found as full company logos and some are simply one-word markings. At any rate, the locations of these markings are sometimes hard to find. To find a company mark, you have to look with either a jewelers' eye or a magnifying glass. Either tool is a must.
To find a jewelers mark, begin by turning the piece over so you are looking at it's back, then start looking for the obvious markings such as the company name. If no obvious mark is found, then you must resort to a tool to help you find it. By eye, locate a section on the piece that looks like it could be texturing of the metal. Use either your jewelers' eye or magnifying glass to see if these are actually markings or if they are texturing of the metal. If no markings are found, continue on with your tool to locate the marking.
Depending on the item you are searching, the markings can be in various locations. I'll give you a few examples of hidden markings so you can make sure you check in every nook and cranny of the piece. A pair of earrings can be marked in various places. Pierced earrings usually come with a plastic guard on the earring back. This guard can be removed. If the marking is on that backing, you lose that marking forever! However, even though the plastic guard was removed and it contained the jewelers marking, doesn't mean your quest is over. Look on the back of the earring setting itself. Some jewelers mark the piece in several ways, and this is an example of those extra markings. If it is a pair of post or stud earrings and there is a setting containing rhinestones or other materials, look on the back of that setting. If there is no setting and it is a hoop or wire pierced earring, search the wire itself. Sometimes the markings will be one the wire. Clip on earrings are a slight bit easier to find the markings. Again, begin by turning the piece over so you are looking at its back. Then flip open the clip. Sometimes the marking is under the clip, or even on the backside of the clip. These are fairly easy to find but may be difficult to read, and therefore you will need your tool to determine the actual stamp.
Open back stones are sometimes difficult to find markings on as well. They can be hidden on the side of the setting and made to look as though the setting is textured. The jeweler may even go so far as to texture the rest of the setting making your search even more difficult. So when searching an open back setting, make sure you search with a strong light and a strong tool.
Pins, brooches and tie tacks are another difficult item to search. Since most of those items are made up of numerous pieces, the markings can be found just about anywhere. For the markings on pins and brooches, begin by turning the piece over so you are looking at its back. Look in the more obvious places and them use your tool to examine under the pin itself, on the clasping mechanism, and sometimes even slightly hidden where the pin is actually attached. These are difficult areas to search but it is necessary in some cases to find the markings. Tie tacks are another item that is sometimes made up of numerous pieces and the markings can be hidden. Again, search the obvious places and then begin your tool search. Take the back off of the item, check the back, and even check the post to see if there is a marking there. Sometimes the markings are located under the back near the bottom of the post.
Necklaces and pendants are sometimes difficult to search. Try searching the clasp on the chain first. Some companies actually place a small tag on the clasp with the marking on it. If no tag is found, then examine the clasp. If no mark is found check the pendant. It can, like on pins and brooches, be found anywhere on the setting of the pendant and even the hasp the pendant hangs from.
I hope, if you decide to search your old costume jewelry, that you are lucky enough to find markings that can be researched and then determine their value. There is a huge market for these items at this time and sometimes they can be worth much more than they were when they were purchased. So, good luck in your search and have fun doing it.
